Toppa Top 10: Top Rum, Part Two

Words by Eddie STATS Houghton

I have actually been meaning to put together a follow up to my Top 10 Caribbean rums post almost since it went up. I have been quietly collecting and noting more premium rums–sacrificing my personal brain cells in the name of science–for inclusion in Top Rum, Part Two: The Alcoholic Boogaloo. The fact that this past friday a major Hollywood movie starring Johnny Depp and titled the Rum Diary was released was simply the last drop that caused the cup to overflow.

Please note, this list is intended to supplement, not replace, the original top 10–which I very deliberately sub-titled top 10 rums in my life so far. Into every life, some new rum must fall. Some of these were recommendations from friends and LargeUp readers in direct reply to the first post. Some, I stumbled across while travelling to a few new countries and a few new bashments. And some brands are the result of music and/or porn legends (Chris Blackwell and Ron Jeremy, respectively) stepping into the rum arena with new-brand premium brands.

So without further ado, I will give you a second to get comfortable, light your favorite cigar and…Salud.

10. Havana Club (Cuba)

This one makes the cut for history as much as quality. The 7 year anejo version which is readily available is a robust and enjoyable, if not super-premium rum. A little rough, full of heat and the sherry and oak flavor. More notably, it is a claimant for the rum used in the very first Cuba Libre AKA the original rum ‘n coke. The exact origins of the cocktail are obscured by a lost rum-soaked weekend going back to 1900 (Bacardi also claims–somewhat improbably–to have been first) but it is safe to say that Havana Club has been the guest of honor at quite a few historical moments, including the Cuban adventures of Teddy Roosevelt and his Rough Riders, a few Ernest Hemingway novels, more than a few shady assignations between Meyer Lansky and his cosa nostra homies–and of course the Cuban revolution. Most at home in a classic Cuba libre with lots of lime, which balances the heat and strong flavor, HC also comes in a Maximo Extra Anejo edition which goes for some $2000/bottle. I have not tried it.

9. Ron del Barrilito (Puerto Rico)

This is the best Puerto Rican rum you are likely to encounter…which is not actually saying that much. Sorry, Puerto Rico. God bless your mofongo and your rich musical heritage. But something about your relationship with the US has made you a haven for mass-produced, not-good rums. Barrilito is the closest I’ve personally found to an exception; strong sherry-cask flavor and other spicy notes (that I suspect come from additives not aging). I would recommend for cocktails more than sipping.

8. Brugal (Dominican Republic)

Repeat everything I said in the last entry, but find-all ‘Puerto Rico’ and insert ‘Dominican Republic’. And make it a little smoother,  a little darker and and a little older. I can’t say this is the best of DR because there are still a few venerable Dominican brands (Cubaney, Barcelo) that I have yet to try, but certainly the best so far. And based on my on-the-ground research in PR, real Puerto Ricans drink Dominican rum (and probably bump merengue, too. just saying).

7. Westerhall (Grenada)

A youngish but thoroughly pleasant amber rum. Tastefully done, balancing the flavor-range of say, an Appleton’s Special with the crispness of a pure white rum like Cane Spirit Rothschild. Not one of my go-to rums, but like Clément, one I go to when bored of the go-tos.

6. Blackwell Rum (Jamaica)

Now we really getting into the good stuff. A touch on the dark side, with a subtle coffee note from its “secret ingredient.”  Lots of rums have additives or spice added but they usually bomb, taste like suntan lotion and/or the impurities leave you feeling like you were run through a cane-thresher yourself. Blackwell has neither, probably the result of bringing a master blender’s restraint to what is essentially a good quality but not very old rum–and the distinctive taste that results is a welcome addition to the pantheon. Also it was made by Chris Blackwell and his own description of it: “It’s not sweet. It’s not sweet–but it has just a little bit of flavor” gets quoted a lot around LargeUp HQ. Makes a good conversation ender for just about any topic.

5. El Dorado (Guyana)

Guyana has a surprising (to me) number of good quality dark rums and this is my favorite so far. Definitely on the darker and sweeter–almost syrupy–side, a good alternate if you’re a fan of Diplomatico. To experience properly, go for the bottle that says 21 years finest demarara. Definitely in the top ranking.

4. Ron de Jeremy (Panama)

Don’t act all shocked. If you read LargeUp you’ve already seen Ron Jeremy’s face on a rum bottle , and you already know that it is no tiki-bar bullshit but the premium baby of the Cuban master blender and Panamanian manufacturer behind Ron Abuelo, one of the most highly-rated rums out there. It’s so good in fact that, there was much speculation among rum connoisseurs about why your Abuelo was putting out a new product that was potentially better than his signature product. And then there was another round of speculation that the blend was reformulated so that the student (pornstar) wouldn’t outshine the master. Maybe rum makes you paranoid? We don’t even know which batch our sample bottle is from (gracias, Abuelo) but we like it. Which brings us to:

3. Ron Abuelo (Panama)

Rated as one of the best, a perfect fusion of Cuban technique and Panamanian drive (today the canal, tomorrow the world). If you have the chance go for the limited edition Centuria edition, produced in 2008 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Varela Hermanos sugar plantation–founded in 1908 by Spanish emigré Don José Varela. Goes for about $130.00 a bottle and cheap at the price.

1 & 2. Angostura 1919 and Angostura 1824 (Trinidad)

Two grades of grog from the same Trinidad rummaker (House of Angostura–also home of famous Angostura bitters) and two deliciously distinctive rums. Again, the 1919 series is in the same general spectrum of color and age as Appleton’s Special or Westerhall–perhaps a touch more color and character and with a very strong vanilla note which makes it great for mixing with coke (no lime, no libre) or sipping–although some friends (OK, lovers) found the vanilla taste off-putting. 1824 is a whole different beast. Darker, smokier and woodier. Rum comes in more varieties than any other spirit but at the top end of the spectrum, its amazing how closely products from different countries and different processes tend to converge on the same sweet spot; though with its own distinctive flavor this is very close in character and quality to the holy trinity that topped first list: Zacapa, Diplomatico and Appleton’s Reserve. In other words a damn good rum, and available at the liquor shop up the Brooklyn block. In spirits as in beauty, Trinidad wins this round.