Trini Christmas, 101: How to Make Pastelles, Black Cake + Chow Chow

Words and Photos by Tishanna Williams—

Trini culture expert Tishanna Williams brings us the second in our series spotlighting unique cultural traditions surrounding the Christmas season in Trinidad & Tobago. Read the first installment, “How to Make Punch De Creme,” here, and the second, “Parang Season:When Trinidad Goes Spanish,” here.

Cooking is a big deal during the holidays in Trinidad & Tobago. So much work goes into it that often entire families come together for the preparation and split the resulting fare. It’s not surprising to even see your neighbor put their entire stove out in the yard for the occasion. An authentic twin isles Christmas is nothing without some signature dishes and sauces. Although they vary by area, three must haves are Pastelles, Black Cake and Chow Chow. Read on for the recipes, try them out, and surprise guests for the holidays with a little Trini flavor.

Pastelles

Pastelles are steamed cornmeal pies, wrapped in banana leaves or pockets, and stuffed with your favorite savory filling. Although versions are seen in Spanish culture, this dish is thought to date back to the pre-Colombian period and the indigenous peoples of the islands. Shrimp, shredded fish, soya or crab meat can also be used. Prepare as indicated below, or switch it up and make your filling taste just how you like it.

For the filling:

1.5 lb mixed ground meat (pork/beef/veal)
2 onions, chopped
2 tablespoon thyme
1/2 habanero or scotch bonnet pepper
2 pimento peppers
2 chadon beni leaves
2 cloves garlic
1 piece of ginger
1 tsp black pepper
1 teaspoon salt
¼ cup ketchup
1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
3 tbsp capers (optional)
2 tbsp olives, chopped
½ cup raisins

For the cornmeal outer layer:
2 cups yellow cornmeal
3 cups lukewarm water
4 tbsp. vegetable oil or coconut oil
¼ lb butter, unsalted
1¼ tsp salt

For the wrapping:
2 -3 large fig (banana) leaves
Strings to tie

Directions:

Filling:

Season meat with onions, thyme, pimentos, garlic, chadon beni and Worcestershire sauce. Leave for about 15mins to marinate. Heat oil, garlic and ginger in a large skillet. Add meat and turn continuously, ensuring you break up all lumps of meat as finely as possible. Mix in ketchup, black pepper and salt. Place scotch bonnet pepper in whole (Careful not to burst it!!). This pepper will also be removed whole and discarded when you have finished cooking the meat. Once meat is cooked, add the chopped capers, olives and give it a good stir. If you have raisins, add them now as well. Allow this to cook for a couple minutes, then turn off the stove and leave to cool while you prepare the cornmeal.

Cornmeal Dough

Combine cornmeal, water, salt, and butter to make a soft pliable dough. Divide the dough into small balls and cover with damp cloth to prevent drying. Cut the fig leaves into 9″ square, stripping the midrib. Singe the leaf over a low fire on the stove and wipe clean. Dip the cornmeal dough ball in the oil and place on an oiled fig leaf using a wooden press to help flatten out the dough (if you do not have one, simply press into an 8″ square). Spoon about 2 tbsp meat filling to the center of the dough. Fold the fig leaf and tie along length and breadth using the string. Place in a pot of water and boil for 15-20 minutes. When cooked, drain the water. Let cool and freeze until you are ready to eat. To defrost, steam over a pot of boiling water for 10-15mins.

Black Cake

Dense Fruit Cake soaked in various spirits, enjoyed throughout the season and—if it lasts— the year. Depending on the baker, you won’t even need that holiday drink once you eat this. This recipe is usually generational, learned and taught with eyeball measurements. So when preparing, use the measurements indicated and a bit of your own discretion when checking batter consistency.

Fruit Puree
2lbs currants
2lbs sultanas
2lbs raisins
2lb prunes
1 bottle maraschino cherries
1/2lb mixed peel
1/2lb glazed fruits
1 1/2 bottle cherry brandy

Browning sauce
3lbs brown sugar water

Cake base
2lbs butter
3lbs of flour
1 1/lbs white sugar
3tsp baking powder
18 eggs
1 whole lemon rind
Tbsp vanilla essence (to taste)
Tbsp almond essence (to taste)
2 dashes bitters spices (nutmeg, cinnamon – to taste)

Soaking
1 bottle White Oak rum

Directions:

Fruit Puree
Grind all fruits together with 1 1/2 bottles of cherry brandy and leave overnight (some people leave their fruits for a year and incorporate different alcohols, based on taste, to increase potency).

Browning

Put brown sugar in hot iron pot and stir continuously until it melts and turns into a thick, bubbling, brown liquid. Once sugar has been totally caramelized, pour in water until the it achieves a light, smooth syrup consistency. (BE CAREFUL). Leave to cool.

Cake Batter

Cream white sugar and butter. Beat eggs with lemon rind and essence, then add it to the butter/sugar mixture. Blend everything together until smooth. Add spice and baking powder. Fold in the flour (you will not need all 3lbs at this point) until all ingredients form a slightly heavy batter (a fork should fall slowly when placed in bowl). Mix in the soaked fruits, followed by the browning sauce prepared earlier. At this point, your cake batter would have thinned out so add more flour, just enough to thicken the fruit batter. Pour into your greased cake pans and bake at 350⁰ for approx 1hr 15mins or until toothpick can be removed clean from the center. Remove cakes and allow to cool before soaking them with the remaining cherry brandy and rum. Wrap in cling wrap and leave until ready to serve.

Note: These cakes freeze well but can last about three months without refrigeration. Many people unwrap stored cakes to re-apply alcohol throughout the months.

Chow Chow

We all know about Christmas ham, but in Trinidad, it is sacrilegious to offer a slice of meat without this sauce at the side. Although it is the centerpiece of the season, a true Trini knows ham is nothing without the Chow Chow. By the way, it is mandatory to offer a piece to anyone that comes over…

Ingredients:
1 cup carrot
1 cup cauliflower
1 cup bodi (or green beans)
2 cups sweet peppers (bell peppers..red and green)
1 cup onion
6 pimento peppers
10 cloves
6 tbsp sugar
2tbsp turmeric (saffron)
3 1/2 cups vinegar
3 tbsp mustard
2 tbsp cornstarch
2tbsp grated ginger
1tbsp salt

Directions:
Dice vegetables into tiny pieces, trying to ensure that all are cut to similar sizes. Add salt and pour in water until contents are completely covered. Leave this brine/veggie mixture overnight. The next day, whisk vinegar, turmeric, sugar, mustard, ginger, cloves and corn starch, in a large saucepan on high heat until it comes to a boil. Lower heat and simmer for 15mins, stirring continuously. Strain liquid into another saucepan which is then to be placed on the stove, again at low heat. Add drained vegetables to this sauce and boil for 10-15mins until it thickens somewhat. Please note that once removed from heat the chow chow will continue to thicken a bit. Store in clean glass bottles in the fridge or if you wish to preserve for longer, pour into sterilized glass containers while hot.