Weekend Pass: Tobago

Words by Tishanna Williams

It’s Great Fete Weekend on the island of Tobago. This summer party fest sees droves flocking to Trinidad’s sister isle for a weekend of sea, rum and fete and, with acts like Spice, Future, Shabba Ranks, Bounty Killer and major soca artists like Olatunji set to appear, this year will be no different. Tobago has a reputation across the Caribbean (and among Trinis, especially) as the weekend party getaway with its year-round calendar of events so we had to check out this little island to see what the buzz was about, and we weren’t disappointed. Get your weekend pass to Tobago here.

FRIDAY

T&T being a twin island republic, Tobago is accessible from Trinidad via both air and sea. If you’re already in Trinidad and just want to switch it up a little with another trip, the inter-island ferries (US$20 for a return trip) sets sail several times a day from the seaport in the capital, Port of Spain. If you don’t have the sea legs for this 2 1/2 hour trip, it’s a 25-minute flight from Piarco to the newly renamed ANR Robinson International Airport (formerly Crown Point International) on the sister isle. Flights leave regularly and generally cost TT$300, or $48 US.

If you haven’t arranged pick up, taxis are easily accessible from the airport and there are many car rental agencies to choose from. We personally recommend Tobago United Auto Rentals, which is located literally across the street from the airport.

Get Wet

You would think we would tell you to go to your room first right? Wrong! Store Bay, one of the most popular beaches on the island is a two-minute drive/15-minute walk from the airport. Now, why would it be there if it wasn’t meant to be your first stop? This beach is a great place to jet ski or get a glass-bottomed boat tour of the famous Buccoo Reef and Nylon Pool. Ask to be taken deeper into the reef to the Coral Gardens, where you can enjoy snorkeling and observing marine life, without damaging the ecosystem.

Get Fed

Photo Courtesy: Steve Bennett, UncommonCaribbean.com

Store Bay is also a perfect opportunity to get lunch and sample the national dish of Tobago— crab stewed in a coconut milk curry and served with dumplings—from any of the vendors in the food court situated at the top of the beach. Grab some food and head down to the sand, ask for Lynx Beach Chair Rentals (he has our seal of approval and can also hook you up with a reliable glass-bottom boat captain), grab a seat and relax.

If you see a man in a tent on the sand serving up drinks, you may have just met “The Man on The Rock.” His cocktails (US$7-$10) and hilarious personality will have you literally rolling in the sand. Tell him LargeUp sent you so he’ll fix you up nice.

Get a Room

Castara Retreats

Now that you’ve enjoyed a real Tobago welcome, head to your room. Whether you want a vacation that’s “turned up” or low key, there are spaces to facilitate you, from high-end hotels and villas to low-budget rooms with that authentic Bago vibe. Prices can range from US$50 to US$800 per night. We recommend going to the MyTobago website for a listing of amazing properties complete with reviews from past guests. LargeUp has plenty love for Johnston Apartments and Kariwak Holistic Haven and Hotel, both located in the midst of the active Store Bay scene.

But if you’re looking for some serious peace and quiet, Castara Retreats and the rustic seaside village of Castara wins hands down. Make sure to stop for all the supplies you will need as there aren’t any major stores or markets near to the village.

*If you are staying in Castara, lunch at Marguerite’s Local Cuisine is a must! And Kariwak has live jazz performances on Friday and Saturday night if you want a different flavor before you head to the club.

Get Pumpin

Photo Courtesy: The Jade Monkey

Grab dinner at the Watermill Restaurant on Shirvan Road, Mt. Pleasant, which is easily accessible from the main Tobago road and then head to The Jade Monkey Casino Bar and Grill located in Bon Accord. This is the place to party it up on a Friday night. Dress code is casual party wear and the music is a Dancehall/Reggae/Soca/Hip Hop mix but pace yourself, you just arrived and the weekend is still young.

SATURDAY

Get Fed
Traditional breakfast in Tobago is similar to Trinidad comprising of bake and your choice of side (sausages, saltfish, accra or smoke herring). Even the hotels have incorporated these items into their morning menu. Popular breakfast spots to check out during your stay are:

Kariwak Village Restaurant: Located on Store Bay Local Road. A la Carte style with great healthy food, seasoned from their on-site herbs garden.

Rosie’s Homestyle Bakery: Friendly on your pocket and good to your stomach, this bakery turned breakfast spot in Bon Accord is a local favorite.

*If you get off to a late start, grab a roti lunch at Patsy’s Roti Shop in Crown Point. You can’t come to TnT and not have curry.

Get Going

While the main road is easy to access, if you really want to see the beauty of Tobago, you have to go off the beaten path. With countless bird, reptile and mammal species (including a good share of these “wild” creatures) and the oldest legally protected forest in the world, there is more than enough to see. If this is your first visit or you don’t have any connections on the island, see the more popular sites by hiring a tour guide. Check this site for listings of nationally certified guides, complete with ratings and reviews from tourists. Some spots not to be missed are:

Parlatuvier: The village is beautiful any way you slice it, but the real ticket here is the traditional “dirt oven” bread brunch, complete with smoked fish, held by the local community.

Fort King George: Built in 1804 overlooking Scarborough, the site includes an old chapel, cell block (you can still see bullets lodged in the walls from the time they executed slaves at this site), military cemetery, powder house and the Tobago Museum.

Argyle Waterfall: At 54m, this is Tobago’s highest and most dynamic waterfall, located on the Argyle River, just west of Roxborough Village and about 25 km from Scarborough. Because it is a walk in to the falls, we advise you are accompanied by a knowledgeable tour guide, or an experienced friend familiar with the terrain.

Golden Lane—The Witch’s Grave: One of Tobago’s most famous legends. Gang Gang Sarah is believed to have flown from Africa to Tobago in the 18th century. She landed at Les Coteaux and moved to Golden Lane, where she became the village midwife. She died after trying to fly home from the top of a silk cotton tree (the salt used by slave masters to season their food had made her unable to fly). The unmarked tombs have been there for nearly two centuries and regularly draw crowds to the village of Le Coteaux.

If you’re up for a bit more adventure, check out the Offroad Jeep Safari offered by Tobago Now Tourism Services and see parts of the island that regular tour guides can’t get to.

Get Pumpin’

Photo Courtesy: The Shade

Saturday night is all about The Shade (D’ Shade), Tobago’s most popular nightclub, in Bon Accord. Covered and open areas within the venue make the club spacious enough for you to chill away from the crowds or jump in and party it up with friends. The dress code is chic casual and music is a mix of soca/dancehall/reggae/rap/R&B mix. Entry: approx. US$25-$30.

SUNDAY

Make the final day of the weekend count but take it a little easy because later tonight you will be heading to the most popular party on the island. Christen today “beach day” and take the North Pipe Road around the island to discover the waters of some of the beautiful semi-deserted village coasts.

Get Going Again

Make sure to stop at Jemma’s Treehouse Restaurant for a real Tobago “Blue Food” lunch. This spot is literally a treehouse overlooking Charlotteville and has been a favorite for people heading to this side of the islands for years.

Our Beach Picks

Photo: Kwesi Des Vignes

Englishman’s Bay: A half-mile (800m) beach on the north coast near Castara with powdery light sand leads to the deep, calm water and one of the loveliest beaches for snorkeling.

Lover’s Bay: This one is only accessible via boat from Charlotteville but the pink sand on the beach sets an appropriately romantic mood that makes it worth the visit.

King’s Bay: Located on the southeast side of the island and once a Native First People settlement, this secluded, dark-sand beach has good facilities, including showers, lifeguards and shaded cabanas.

Pigeon Point: This beach rivals Store Bay in popularity, but is even more stunning. We named it #2 on our countdown of the Caribbean’s best beaches. Entry fee is US$3 and the calm waters make it perfect for watersports. Radical Sports is the leading service provider on the island with kitesurfing, water-skiing, paddle boats, kayaking and much more. Pigeon Point also has a Sunday night beach lime so, even if you don’t feel like driving around today, you can still have an full day of activities in this one spot.

Island Girl Cruises offers amazing coastline tours aboard Catamarans that sail you around the island to beaches only accessible by boat and waters where you can watch dolphins playiing in the water. Another great way to spend a day!

Go Hard Before You Go Home!

After a day of sea bathing and a good Tobago “Blue Food” lunch, head back to the hotel, relax and get ready for your night. Sundays in Tobago are synonymous with the Sunday School fete, in Buccoo. It’s a law. Arrive early (9-ish) if you want to take in the pre-party steelpan session and to sample the hand of the food vendors that come out at night. But the actual fete starts around 11pm when the DJs get to work mixing soca, dancehall and reggae, and the session doesn’t stop til the sun comes up. No need to dress up or walk with a lot of cash — drinks are cheap. Consult our Rules for Wining before you hit this one. It’s gonna be a long wine and jam night.

You can’t leave Sunday School without getting a the bake and fish from Benson’s Bake and Fish cart right outside the venue. It’s so good, you’ll be going back for seconds.

MONDAY

Time to catch the plane or ferry back to Port of Spain, and go back home. But after the weekend you just had, we know you will be back soon.