Carnival Checklist: A Guide to Real Culture at Trinidad Carnival

Words by Tishanna Williams
Photo by Colin Williams

Carnival in Trinidad & Tobago is not only about wine and fete and mas. The country’s rich history and active nightlife make it a hub for food and culture enthusiasts as well as fashionistas and bacchanalists. Though your (late) nights and mornings may be filled with jumping up in some of the most epic parties you have ever experienced, you still have entire days and evenings to enjoy the varied fare that T&T has to offer. We consulted our Trini experts for the scoop on the real spots to hit to get that truly local vibe, and this is what they had to say.

THE BARRACK YARD TENT EXPERIENCE
When: Wednesday-Sunday through Feb. 20, from 8-11pm
Where: National Academy of the Performing Arts, Port of Spain

Barrack yards were large compounds which housed the displaced Africans once they had been emancipated and moved off the plantations. It was here that most of the cultural artforms (calypso, theatre, traditional mas) originated. Former Calypso monarch Kurt Allen has brought together calypso royalty (include Lord Nelson, David Rudder and Calypso Rose) in a highly-touted theatrical show. With over 20 theatre and musical acts, traditional barrack yard cuisine (inclusive) and a price tag less than US$40, this is a don’t miss.

THE 3CANAL SHOW
When: Feb. 5-8 and 12-14, @8pm
Where: Queen’s Hall, Port of Spain.

The 3Canal Show is a staple of Trinidad Carnival. This year they give us RAW, a “music theatre dance spectacle comedy.” The show is adults only: Nothing is sacred, and the type of wining and performances their dancers put on is something you have to see to believe. The band’s event is one of the most anticipated and well attended cultural events each year, with as many foreigners flocking for seats as locals. This group also has one of the most popular J’Ouvert bands in the country, featuring both music trucks and traditional Iron and Steel Truck. Cost: US$50 (show only)

TEN TO ONE
When: Feb 5th-8th and Feb 26th-March 1st
Where: Central Bank Auditorium, Port of Spain

The Mighty Sparrow is the undisputed Calypso King of the World and this show is a musical tribute to the legend. If you love calypso and a good ole Trini time, this is for you. Produced by Iere Theatre Company and starring some of the best performers in the business, the show is already garnering major attention. Gala tickets cost US$50 while other shows are around US$25.

THE OLD YARD – TRADITIONAL MAS
When: Sunday February 8th @ 12am
Where: Department of Creative and Festival Arts, UWI. St. Augustine

If you want one experience that packs a full punch, this event offers a journey into cultural history and the origins of mas. Produced by the Department of Creative and Festival Arts at the University of the West Indies, the venue’s architectural style is as reminiscent of long ago as is their masquerade. Witness portrayals of Carnival characters including Bats, Minstrels and Burrokeets, Midnight Robber and Dame Lorraine. The event is kid- and budget-friendly, at US$8 for adults and US$5 for children.

STICKFIGHT FINALS
When: Wednesday, Feb. 11th @ 7:30pm
Where: Skinner’s Park, San Fernando

The gayelle will be overrun with the best of the best at this event. Skill and stamina is a definite requirement for this sport that involves duellng with deadly sticks known as bois. Steeped in spirituality and tradition, the artform traces its legacy back to the days of slavery. If you’re not sure what you are getting into, check out our article “Bois! Reviving Trinidad’s Stickfighting Traditions” for a quick brush up on this extreme sport.

KAMBULE
When: Carnival Friday (Feb. 13) @ 4:30a.m
Where: The Greens, Picadilly Street, Port of Spain

Many don’t know that in 1881, the British government attempted to put a stop to the Carnival celebrations of Port-of-Spain and the residents of the barrack yard protested going so far as to beat the militiamen and riot in the streets until the Governor himself had to come calm them down. Now, thousands gather each year on Piccadilly Greens, Port-of-Spain (often still dressed from last night’s party) to experience the re-enactment of that historic day. We advise you get there early too. Bleachers are packed as early as 3:30am. Experience last year’s presentation in our exclusive photo series.

PARAMIN BLUE DEVILS
When: Carnival Monday night (Feb. 16)
Where: The Hills of Paramin (transport necessary)

The hills of Paramin, located in North West Trinidad and accessible from Port of Spain, have for years welcomed the masses on Carnival Monday night to party with the residents. But the real show begins at around 10pm when the devils come down the hill, covered in blue paint, beating large biscuit tins and spitting fire. The event is free but we advise you walk with some TT dollars to pass out to them or you may end up with a little blue on you.

DE’ AVENUE
When: All night, every night
Where: Ariapita Avenue. Woodbrook

De’ Ave is the place to be once the weekend hits. A strip of restaurants with some of the best street food the town has to offer and countless clubs and bars, once you’re in Trinidad, you must eventually end up here. Our favorite spots include Stumblin (club—ladies free), Aria (exclusive party lounge), More Vino (sushi and great wine), Frankies (outdoor bar and after-work lime spot) and, well, all the food is good!