Words by Tishanna Williams
Photos by Brian Villegas
No matter what time of the year, there’s always endless reasons to come to the Caribbean. This time, we take you to the island Grenada, where the sun, sea, sand, people and breadfruit oildown will give you one of the most comfortable vacations you’ve ever had. Now you know we never send you anywhere unprepared, so here’s our checklist for enjoying the Spice Isle the best way we know how… with the inside scoop from islanders themselves. Read up, book that ticket and enjoy!
Start your trip here.
Grenada is a small island and, once off the plane, taxis will be available to take you wherever you want to go for a small fee. If you’re planning to do a lot of sightseeing or want to be in the hub of activity, we recommend you stay closer to town in St. George’s rather than in the countryside, where transport is a little more difficult and accessing it may require an uphill or downhill trek. The Calabash Hotel is one of the most popular choices in St. George, putting you right near Prickly Bay Beach and close to Grand Anse, but with rooms starting at $385 per night, the luxury boutique resort doesn’t come cheap. For a truly Grenadian experience, Grenadian Homestays connects visitors with host families at homes and apartments around the island.
The average cost of transport is around EC$3 (US $1.25) but if you’re looking for commuter comfort, think again. Grenada is known for its minibuses that work various routes, and let’s just say the size of the van is not always proportional to the amount of persons they attempt to fit in. (But if you plan to wait on another that is less packed, good luck.) The main bus terminal in town is centrally located and is extremely accessible. Also, if you stay countryside or on the north of the island, you may still find yourself having to walk long distances or waiting for a while. On the Gran Anse side of town, things are a bit easier since those buses usually work until 8pm. Bottom line, if you need comfort or aren’t up for a lot of walking or waiting, rent a car. Hiring taxis could cost you around US$30 for a round trip to your destination of choice.
P.S: Buses DO NOT run on Sundays!!
Oildown is the national dish of Grenada, and with good reason. Slices of breadfruit and dumplings steamed in coconut milk with assorted meats and seasonings make for a real yummy and filling treat. If you visit the countryside on a Sunday, you may just see a huge pot being cooked out in the open on a wooden fire.
Grenadians eat a lot of seafood. From conchs to fish to shellfish, you will find fish options everywhere you go. Our favorite seafood restaurant? BB’s Crabback. Owned by celebrity chef Brian Benjamin, who originally opened the restaurant in London and also has a background in French cuisine, this eatery is located on the Carenage in the capital city. BB’s reputation has won them various accolades, including two Critic’s Choice awards, and press in the Boston Globe, among other publications. But, even with all of the hype, BB’s is still reasonably priced. Make sure you try the signature appetizer, BB’s Crabback. Trust us.
Ital
In the heart of town, directly opposite the bus terminus, there is a street. Walk up, keeping left and you will immediately come to a small fruit stall. Tell them you are looking for “Iron”, and let them lead you to a small Rasta compound in the heart of town. Johnny, or “Iron” as he is more commonly known, prepares strictly vegan fare including bakes, breadfruit oildown, smoothies and desserts. Take a seat, tell him LargeUp sent you. Trust us, he will fix you nice.
Street Food
There isn’t much in the way of street food on the island and what exists leans heavily in the way of Arabic (gyros, etc). Head down on The Promenade for gyros, barbeque and a small chill out.
Cocoa
No trip to Grenada is complete without sampling some of its famous cocoa. The island is increasingly regarded as one of the world’s capitals for this delicacy, but if you’re expecting the sweet variety found in candy stores, think again. A visit to Belmont Estate, the “Caribbean’s finest agri-tourism experience” offers an opportunity to taste some of the best cocoa Grenada has to offer while learning about its production.
Whether you rather lounge, taking in some local music or party *almost* all night long (most events end by 2am), Grenada has something for you.
Venus Restaurant and Sports Lounge
This sports bar located on Gran Anse Wall Street, has a variety of entertainment, including a restaurant, pool tables, big screen TVs, slot machines and rooms for private dining and event hosting. Wednesday nights often has an open mic session. Cocktails cost around US$5 and a decent meal can be had for US$20.
Club Bananas
On Friday and Saturday nights, Bananas is transformed from a restaurant/bar/hangout spot to a pumping club venue beginning at 10:30pm. Locals, tourists and American students class this as a fave spot. This venue is also LGBT friendly.
Fantazia
Soca, reggae, live shows and international music at this venue on Morne Rouge Beach will have you dancing all night long. They open from 9.30 PM ’til the small hours of the morning with the most popular nights are Friday & Saturday. There are also live shows Friday and Saturday. Entry costs EC$10 (US$3.70).
Slum Jab Sundays
If Jab Jab mas ever had a General, Stephen “Slum” Jacobs would hold the title and if you doubt us, listen to a few Jab tracks and you should hear his name mentioned somewhere along the track. Even LIME, premiere Caribbean communication provider, has endorsed the man. You need to check out his Jab Jab Village fete, every Sunday in Morne Delice, St David’s. It usually runs from 2pm – 10pm, but it’s when the sun goes down that it really begins. J’Ouvert every Sunday? Uh… Yeah!
If you’re planning to dress pretty or worst, in white.., think again. Jab Mas is an oil fete. You don’t need to get dirty but you should be prepared.
Gouyave Fish Friday
Known in Grenada as the town that never sleeps this fishing village lies in Grenada’s northwest, about 45 minutes from the south hotel district. This is the seafood mecca of the island with fishermen having received medals from Queen Elizabeth. The event, as the name suggests, takes place every Friday, from 6PM until, normally, about 1AM.
Cruise
Boat parties, or “cruise,” has become quite popular on the island for weekend fun. Costs vary as do the times, but this is a local favorite, so ask any Grenadian. They will definitely have the scoop on the latest upcoming cruise party.
GET WET
Grenada is known for the beauty of its beaches but the jewel on the crown is Gran Anse, where the water is so clear you can see the white sand beneath your feet. Buses take you from the terminus to a point that is no more than three minutes walk from this breathtaking site, which is great for both the beach wader and the water sport adventurer.
But there are plenty of other options for great beach vibes. Is a little private time what you need? Whether you’re planning a nice day with a book or a seaside makeout session, Morne Rouge (also known as BBC Beach, after Grenada’s first beach club) and La Sagesse, in St. David’s, are great spots. The latter is also home to the hotel, restaurant and beach bar of the same name.
BBC is also kid-friendly due to the shallow water at some points.
GET TO CARRIACOU and PETIT MARTINIQUE
If you have enough time during your visit, a day trip to Grenada’s sister isles, Carriacou and Petit Martinique, is definitely recommended. Both are easily reachable from St. George’s by the Osprey ferry.
Carriacou, the larger of the two, is also known as the “Land of Reefs” and is perfect for snorkeling. Depending on when you visit, you can experience various cultural fare from a traditional wedding to boat-launching events. There’s also the Big Drum (or Nation) Dance, a traditional musical ritual centered around a boula drum and chantwell singer (and performed at various festivals and at public and family events), and Shakespeare Mas (also known as Pierot), the annual Carnival held yearly on Fat Tuesday.
Just one mile and diameter and with only about 1,000 residents, Petit Martinique is much smaller. In fact, one can make it around the island by foot in just about an hour. But why take it fast, when you can take it slow? Recommended pursuits include hiking up up the 750-foot mountain that stands at the center of the island, and swimming at Palm Beach, the island’s only swimming beach. Should you wish to stay overnight or for a longer period, the island is home to two smal guest houses, Millenium Connection and Palm Beach Guest House.
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