Toppa Top 10: London’s Best Caribbean Food Gems

Words and Photos by Riaz Phillips

Riaz Phillips’ new book Bellyfull (Tezeta Press) tells the story of Caribbean culture in the United Kingdom through food. The book spotlights over 60 restaurants, bakeries, butchers, takeaways and grocers, along with the owners behind each operation, many of whom share their stories of bringing their island’s food to their respective communities. With a cover designed by LargeUp family Robin Clare, Bellyfull is also available with the Bellyfull Likkle Cookbook, featuring family recipes for porridge, festival, curry goat, ital stew and Guinness punch, among other island tings. We had Riaz highlight his favorite hidden Caribbean food gems in his hometown of London.

After restrictions came in place limiting immigration to the USA in the mid 20th century, the U.K., and specifically England, became the predominant outpost for Caribbean people seeking a new life abroad.

The climate in the U.K. was markedly different to what people had known in their previous lives, and many looked to their old culture to recreate that sense of belonging that they had lost crossing the Atlantic. For Caribbean people, this often took the form of music —with the creation of events like Notting Hill Carnival, and the import of Jamaican sound system culture — and also food.

In the early days, Caribbean food was scarce in Britain due to the lengthy import times required for tropical produce. However, recent times have seen an explosion in the number of Caribbean food eateries around the country. These establishments are largely frequented by people of Afro-Caribbean heritage, as knowledge of Caribbean food still remains on the fringes — compared to foods from Asia, for example.

While new names now dot high streets and town centers across London, others have become legend in their own section of town by providing generations of good food and community service. More than places to simply eat, the Caribbean food spots spotlighted on this list have become community favourites in their respective parts of town.

Start the list here. 

True Flavours
101 Acre Ln, Brixton, London SW2 5TU

Asked what a first timer should try at True Flavours in Brixton, South London, owner and head chef Junior gleefully responds, “My Peppered Steak!” Junior’s technique of slow-cooked simmered steak accompanied by chillies and a synthesis of spices in a classic Jamaica Sun dutch pot may have even influenced the name of the restaurant.

Like a parent asked to choose their favourite offspring, it’s hard for Junior to name another favorite, but the golden fried fish — cooked with precision, it walks the fine line between a light crisp exterior and juicy interior — stands out. Luckily, for those who can’t choose between the two, an “off-the-board” Surf and Turf option is available, if you ask nicely.

There’s hardly a quiet moment at True Flavours, during its 12 hours of operation from 11 to 11. With only a few seats to either side of the shop, you’ll have to stand your ground to get your order heard!

Smokey Jerkey
158 New Cross Rd, New Cross, London SE14 5BA

Down toward the South-eastern section of London, along a road that eventually leads to France, Smokey Jerkey has been a local favourite for nearly a decade. After the shop suffered an unfortunate fire, the crew were forced to strip the operation back to its bare bones. Hence, the shop doesn’t have the colourful flair that Caribbean food stops are usually known for. With this, the shop has solely focused on one element of the cuisine: Jerking.

Owner Louie, a native of Jamaica’s Portland parish, proudly (and accurately) boasts that “My birthplace is the home of Jerk.” The choices here are simple but delicious: stew or jerk chicken, lamb or pork, with rice and peas or plain white rice. After visiting Smokey Jerkey’s, you quickly realise what a luxury it must be to have such a refined choice in one’s community. The jerk is easily some of the best in London.

People’s Choice
51B Chatsworth Rd, Hackney, London E5 0LH

At People’s Choice in East London’s Hackney, owner Lenny has perfected a two-hour, slow-cooked jerk, which he starts early each morning. The result is highly crispy skin on top, and a jet-black coating of marinade that many agree is the best part.

A steel jerk drum is firmly placed outside the front of shop, rain or shine. Jerk grills are usually confined to the rear of restaurants, so the opportunity to pick out your chicken straight from the drum is a rare pleasure for those who make it to People’s Choice at the right time.

With jerk chicken this good, you would think it would have been the cornerstone of the shop since day one. However in the early and slower days it wasn’t so. After what Lenny describes as a completely chance pickup of a steel jerk drum, the drifting jerk smells started to attract local residents, and those wandering down the long road between nearby Clapton and Homerton.

Beyond jerk, fluffy golden fried dumplings and sweet corn flour-based festival dumplings rest in wait, next to trays of green callaloo, luminous yellow plantain and ackee dotted with red peppers. This assortment of colours is no accident. You only have to look at Lenny’s well-admired Rasta headwear and numerous accessories to realise that this is a man of fine aesthetic taste.

Horizon Bakery
Unit 8, 14 Bull Ln, Edmonton, London N18 1SX

To the far north of the city, an unassuming factory in an industrial park easily produces some of the best Trinidadian food in the whole country.

The origins of Horizon Bakery, now the largest producer of Trinidadian-style roti in Britain, emerged out of the desire of one family to transplant their home island staple to the other side of the Atlantic. As owner Sheldon Hosein jests, “Back in the days when our English mates would come over they’d always end up licking the plates dry.”

Horizon isn’t open to the public seven days. Regular, mammoth orders from high street restaurants means that the early part of the week is devoted to commercial production. Between Thursdays and Saturdays, however, the bakery’s premises is packed out the door with loyal customers from all corners of London and beyond. Its also a great place to find out about the next soca fête, with all of the flyers left there!

Wenty’s
26 Upton Ln, Forest Gate, E. London E7 9LN

Coming to East London from Jamaica in the 1960s, Mr. Wentworth — otherwise known as Wenty — quickly became known in the area as a door-to-door salesman of sugar cane. It was then only a matter of time before he moved up to a bricks-and-mortar premises, opening Wenty’s Tropical Foods in 1989. For many in the area, this was first place to get fresh produce like yams, jackfruits, green banana and plantain.

While major supermarkets in places like East London lagged behind in supplying food for ethnic communities — or relegated them to the rear of the shop in “Rest of the World” sections — these Caribbean staples were proudly displayed front and center at Wenty’s store. “There are the brands that people are familiar with from back home – that’s why they always come back here,” suggests Wenty.

The shop used to have a hotplate out front for selling dumplings, fritters and patties. Eventually they decided to refurbish the space round the back of the shop into a restaurant, as the hot food became more popular.

Whilst the space round the back is discrete in appearance, it quickly became a frequent stop for locals in the know, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. Every dish under the Caribbean sun is made fresh with Wenty’s own produce rarely survive the day especially when washed down with a ginger or Guinness punch made on the same day.

Mister Patty
48 Craven Park Rd, Harlesden, London NW10 4AE

Throw a dart and you can hit a Caribbean food stop in Northwest London’s Harlesden area these days. But this hasn’t always been the case. In the 1960s, the Fong family, led by Mr. Roy, sought to create a Caribbean treat emulating the soft and flaky patty made prominent in Kingston, Jamaica by the likes of Bruce’s and Tastee’s Bakery.

Mister Patty’s shop has a homey feel, adorned with an original Island Designs Jamaica map  — a visual mainstay of Jamaican businesses and households across the Diaspora. Whilst the sunny, yellow style of patties have come to be the dominant style of patty, those of the older generation will tell you things weren’t always this way. Delicately soft patties similar to English Cornish pastries used to be the order of the day. These old style of patties are a real treat for those who either remember the origins of Mr. Patty or were handed down the legend from their elders, and they’re available in a myriad of flavours to choose from.

R&B Caribbean Takeaway
10 Clarence Road, Lower Clapton, London, E5 8HB

Down the quiet residential Clarence Road in Hackney, R&B Caribbean Takeaway has virtually served as the East London neighbourhood’s kitchen and dining room since the late 1980s. Tuck into dishes like stewed chicken to the sounds of rocksteady in R&B’s back room, and you may quickly forget you’re in a public space.

Mrs. Bev, the B in R&B, started as a cook “many moons ago,” as she puts it. She has since become co-owner of the establishment with partner Roan, an expatriate of St. James, Jamaica, and the the R in R&B. At 5:30 or 6 am begins the daily preparation of peppered prawns, sprats and other staples, soon to be chalked onto the lofty blackboard near the front window.

The pair also serve up some of the best juices in the area, at their adjoining Natural Choice Juices, utilizing the many nearby worldly markets throughout East London. Get there on a day when soursop is available, and you’ll be glad you made the trip.

Ital ‘N’ Vital
134 High Rd, Tottenham, London N15 6JN

Whilst there are places like the legendary Scandals in Northwest London known for their Ital soups, stews and drinks, very few Caribbean eateries in the U.K. place Rastafarian Ital cooking at the very core of their business. Ital ‘N’ Vital in Tottenham is one such place. 

Though there are sometimes specials on offer, Ital N Vital’s staples and crowd favourites are available everyday. Ital ackee with tofu, soya chunks and steam veg all make welcome and refreshing departures from the usual Caribbean favorites. In addition, Ital N Vital boasts a lengthy selection of fruit and vegetable juices, including rarely seen ones like june-plum and beetroot.

Owner and chef Ramses used every inch of the shop’s walls to promote veganism and healthy lifestyles; display monuments to Rastafari icons Haile Selassie and Marcus Garvey; and to celebrate African language and culture.

George’s First Jerk Catering
Surrey St, Croydon CR0

Just stand near George’s First Jerk Catering stall at Surrey Street market in Croydon, South London, and you can feel the excitement people have for proprietor George Whatley’s food. Around lunchtime, the place is a busy reserve of locals and those who work in the nearby area.

Located at the southern point of the market, opposite a seller of vibrant flowers, George hustles fervently under a blue and yellow tarpaulin beginning at 10 am. Whatever the daily choices — fried fish, jerk chicken or pork, curry goat, curried prawns — anyone who arrives later than 2:30pm can expect to leave disappointed. “When it gone, it gone!” George exclaims. “Whether it’s rainy or sunny – the food done same way!”

Instead of its proper name, frequent guests simply refer to the place as “George’s” or “Jerk George.”

With tenure of 15 years to his credit George playfully boasts he can cook any dish blind! He leaves it to chance what meals he is going to serve up on any given day, something George suggests leaves an element of surprise for his customers. “You can come every day, and get something completely different.”

Bushman Kitchen
36 Brixton Station Road, Brixton, London, SW9 6BU

A pillar of the local community, Earl “Bushman” Brown is referred to as “Daddy Bush” around the streets of Brixton. His kitchen has been active since the late 1980s, and is now older than many of its customers.

Bushman rises at 5am daily, sourcing meat and vegetables from the local Brixton market stalls in order to cook every one of his offerings fresh from scratch. By 7am, he is busy preparing fresh juices, and kneading dough for dumplings and sweet festivals.

While the local council no longer permits him to use the old-school jerk drum that sits outside, his special technique for cooking in the oven serves as an ample alternative. The jerk seasoning is another of the items freshly made in the shop.

There are barely, if any, leftovers at Bushman Kitchen at the end of the day. At the height of lunch, the queues snake far outside of the shop, with men in business suits neck-and-neck with those in Rasta regalia. If you’re lucky (or perhaps unlucky) the crew may merrily offer you a shot of constitutional bitters with your meal. Tread very lightly, if you’ve never tried it before.